Category: Thailand

  • Best local restaurants in Koh Lipe

    Best local restaurants in Koh Lipe

    Koh Lipe is a beautiful Thai island, closer to Malaysia than mainland Thailand. It’s referred to as the Maldives of Thailand and it’s easy to see why. The white sandy beaches, beautiful blue water, hidden beaches and stunning sunsets make this island a perfect getaway.

    1. Restaurants on Koh Lipe
    2. Seven of the best local restaurants on Koh Lipe
      1. The best seafood
      2. Tasneem Halal Food
      3. Thaidurm Restaurant
      4. Nèe papaya Thaifood & BBQ
      5. Serene Restaurant
      6. Wanwanthaifoodseafoodkohlipe
      7. Kwyteiyw Ban Suan Noodles
    3. Planning a visit to Koh Lipe

    Restaurants on Koh Lipe

    Koh Lipe is more expensive than mainland Thailand and a few other Thai islands. It’s not pricey at all compared with the UK, Europe or the US of course, but if you’re on a backpacking budget you’ll notice the prices are somewhat higher than most of South East Asia. Additionally, there are plenty of restaurants on Koh Lipe serving Western or Indian food, and not many just serving local Thai food.

    In light of all of this we set out to find the best local restaurants serving delicious Thai food on Koh Lipe without breaking the bank, and have shared that list below!

    We’ve given the price of a Pad Thai as a benchmark dish, but prices for various dishes do of course differ from place to place.

    Seven of the best local restaurants on Koh Lipe

    The best seafood

    Despite the name, we actually couldn’t see any fresh seafood on offer so we decided not to order any of that, perhaps because we ate at lunch time… Regardless the food is decent and the portions are huge. The shining star of their menu are the smoothies – the best we had on the island and we went back to get another the next day!

    Opening hours: 10am-10pm every day

    Location: here

    Pad Thai: 80฿

    Tasneem Halal Food

    There was a proper locals vibe at Tasneem’s both times we ate there. The people working at the restaurant are really friendly and attentive without being pushy and the food is great as well. We can definitely recommend the mango salad which was a delicious!

    Opening hours: 6am-9pm every day

    Location: here

    Pad Thai: 70-90฿ depending on whether you have veg only or add proteins

    Thaidurm Restaurant

    We found this place by accident and ended up going back twice, the seafood was delicious as was the Pad Thai and actually not as pricey for fish as other places we saw so if you want to try some on the island, here is a great option.

    Just a word of warning – don’t be fooled by the juice stand across the road, they look amazing but if you get large one they’re super watered down which is disappointing.

    Opening hours: 12pm-11pm every day

    Location: here

    Pad Thai: 80฿ with shrimp

    Nèe papaya Thaifood & BBQ

    This is a huge restaurant but it’s super busy here every night! The food is really tasty with generous portions and the service is quick and friendly despite them being so busy. There’s a lot of seafood on offer here which makes the prices a bit higher than other places on this list but the prawns we had in our Massaman curry were gigantic and delicious!

    Opening hours: 9am-11:30pm every day

    Location: here

    Pad Thai: 80฿

    Serene Restaurant

    Serene restaurant is right on Walking Street which makes it very central on the island. We had lunch here twice as the food was very tasty and quick. The menu is well priced given its location and the one woman who does all the cooking here cooks in a classic open kitchen meaning you can see your food being made.

    Opening hours: 1pm-4pm & 6pm-9:30pm every day

    Location: here

    Pad Thai: 90฿

    Wanwanthaifoodseafoodkohlipe

    Despite a name that seemingly was entered into Google maps without any spaces, this place deserves a visit! It’s a bit rough around the edges but the staff and food are nice enough. The restaurant is fairly small but the service is very quick and the papaya salad has just the right amount of spice and lime – delicious!

    Opening hours: 11am-9:30pm every day

    Location: here

    Pad Thai: 80฿

    Kwyteiyw Ban Suan Noodles

    This little local restaurant should absolutely be on your must eat list in Koh Lipe. We went back twice and loved every single mouthful. It’s basically a phò place and is amazingly cheap. There’s no menu, you just go to the counter and choose the meat you’d like (chicken or pork or a mix) and your noodles (thick or thin). For those of you who have visited Vietnam, it will bring back a flood of memories! It’s run by a really sweet couple, highly recommended!

    Opening hours: 7am-3pm every day

    Location: here

    Pad Thai: No Pad Thai here, but each dish costs between 60-80฿ depending on whether you choose a single type of meat or a mix!

    There we have it! Seven local restaurants on Koh Lipe to eat delicious Thai food at, without breaking the bank. Let us know if you tried any of these – leave a comment below or find us on Instagram!

    Happy Travels!

    Planning a visit to Koh Lipe

    If you’re planning on visiting Koh Lipe, you might find these helpful

    Thailand E-SIM Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng Luang Prabang to Vientiane

    This post contains affiliate links for some sites that we use extensively on our travels and have decided to partner with. Did you know you can support us, at no additional cost to you, by clicking through and making a purchase using those links? Thank you in advance!

  • The best cafes in Chiang Mai

    The best cafes in Chiang Mai

    1. A bit of context
    2. Macnuts Coffee
    3. Ma Lune
    4. Weave Artisan Society
    5. Gallery Drip Coffee
    6. Alt_Chiang Mai
    7. Nu Nu Nini’s Cafe

    A bit of context

    As huge coffee lovers, this post covers some of our absolute favourite cafes in Chiang Mai. Thailand is one of the top coffee producers in the world, but until recently this has largely been focused on producing Robusta for commercial use. Now though, there is an emergence of Arabica and Robusta being grown for domestic which is trickling down into small batch coffee producers, roasters and sellers. Chiang Mai is an amazing place to visit for many reasons, but you can now add coffee to that list as well.

    Below we’ve set out the cafe’s we love, which focus on great coffee, great locations, and (for the digital nomads among us) great places to work.

    Macnuts Coffee

    Macnuts Coffee is a just outside of Chiang Mai Old Town, to the North and very close to Wat Lok Moli temple which makes this a perfect stop off point if you’re in that part of town visiting the temple. 

    It’s more of a ‘hole in the wall’ for takeaways but it has a bit of seating outside in the shade. The real selling point of this place is the quality of the coffee and the care that goes into making it. 

    The cafe has it’s own small roastery and shares it’s skills online, you can often see the baristas recording their roasting and coffee making process. The shop also sells coffee both in small bags or wholesale.

    The staff are friendly, coffee is delicious and the menu is small, meaning the focus is on getting things just right. 

    Price bracket: under 100฿

    Opening times: 09:00-18:00 all week

    Socials: IG @macnuts.coffee

    Location: Sriphum, Maneenopparat, Muang, Chiang Mai

    Ma Lune

    Ma Lune isn’t instantly noticeable when walking along Wua Lai road, but it would be a shame to miss it. With it’s beautiful wooden chairs and tables, great music and relaxed, welcoming vibes it’s absolutely a must visit if you’re looking for a great cafe in Chiang Mai. It’s very close to the Silver Temple if you’re visiting that as well.

    The cafe also welcomes digital workers so this is a great spot if you’re looking to set up camp in a cafe in Chiang Mai to get some work done.

    Ma Lune focuses on coffee from Northern Thailand and offers lots of choice of different coffee beans for your coffee. The owner is very knowledgeable and we had a great conversation with him about the recent rise and interest in small batch coffee roasteries in Thailand. Chiang Mai absolutely is the capital of this, with the owner moving from Chiang Rai to open up his cafe. 

    Price bracket: under 100฿

    Opening times: 08:30-19:00 all week

    Location: Wua Lai Rd, Haiya, Mueng, Chiang Mai 50100

    Weave Artisan Society

    We almost didn’t go here on our hunt for good coffee in Chiang Mai, but I’m so glad we did. The building is a little hard to find, as you’re walking towards it you’ll feel like you’ve got lost and you’re just in a dusty car park! Keep going, it’ll spring up.

    The coffee is great but the building and vibe is what make this place amazing. Weave Artisan Society is set in a huge warehouse, with beautiful polished concrete, lots of green plants, tall windows, a stunning bar and loads of co-working space – you’d be forgiven for thinking you had stumbled into a cafe in Shoreditch, London.

    You could absolutely stay for a few hours here with a good book or your laptop. So if you’re looking for a good places to work digitally in Chiang Mai, this is also a great option.

    This cafe does a range of pastries and cakes as well which are delicious. The coffee is a little more pricy than other places but you’re paying for the hipster space here!

    A pizza restaurant, chocolate shop and jewelry store also share the building which makes it a fun and vibrant place to spend some time.

    Price bracket: under 200฿

    Opening times: 09:00-00:00 Friday – Wednesday; 09:00-17:30 Thursday

    Socials: IG @weavearitsansociety

    Location: 12/8 Wua Lai Rd Soi 3, Tambon Hai Ya, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50100

    This cafe is actually set within the Arts and Culture Centre, which is well worth going to, but the cafe on it’s own (which you can access separately) is so cute.

    As the name suggests they specialise in drip coffees with beans from all over Northern Thailand, but they also do a delicious iced latte, cold brew etc.

    It’s quite small, very welcoming, and has a great selection of coffee, tea and cakes. In addition the background music and calm views into the courtyard make this cafe a tranquil option if you’re after a relaxed coffee in Chiang Mai. There’s also lots of lovely art work to gaze at or buy and it’s a perfect spot to plan your next move in the town as it’s very central.

    Price bracket: under 100฿

    Opening times: 09:00-17:00 Tuesday – Sunday

    Socials: IG @gallerydripcmi

    Location: Prapokkloa Rd, Si Phum Sub-district, เมือง Chiang Mai 50200

    Alt_Chiang Mai

    Alt Chiang Mai is a concrete polished, focused kind of place. It does good coffee but is more focused on being a co-working space with a cafe on the side.

    There is a separate co-working and co-living space to the cafe, meaning you can either drink and chit chat without annoyed glances or tap away without distractions. You need to book a desk to work here and can do that online, details below.

    The space exudes modern calm architecture, has decent music playing in the cafe and some beach style outdoor furniture if you’d prefer to sit on the terrace and people watch. 

    This isn’t exactly a cosy cafe, but you’ll feel very productive and in tune with your inner digital nomad here.

    Price bracket: under 200฿

    Opening times: 09:00-21:00 all week

    Socials: IG @alt_chiangmai website Alt Living

    Location: 129, 1 Intrawarorot Rd, Tambon Si Phum, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200

    Nu Nu Nini’s Cafe

    This place isn’t exactly hipster, nor does it specialise in northern Thai coffee grown from small batch farms. It is, however, absolutely charming and a great spot to sip and people watch.

    It gives off strong French cafe vibes and is popular with local expats for their morning pastry, coffee, and read of the papers. There is an upstairs with aircon but we preferred to sit on the ground floor near the street and watch the morning market in full action.

    Their pastries are delicious and their coffee is also very good, especially the cappuccinos and lattes for the morning.

    Price bracket: under 100฿

    Opening times: 07:00-17:00 Sunday – Friday; 07:00-22:00 Saturday

    Socials: website Nu Nu Nini’s Cafe

    Location: corner of, 2 Rat Chiang Saen Rd, Tambon Phra Sing, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200

    We’d love to hear if you have any cafes to add to this list, leave a comment below!

    Happy Travels!

  • Ayutthaya – the city of the ancient temples

    Ayutthaya – the city of the ancient temples

    Ayutthaya was the second capital of the Siamese Kingdom, and was founded in 1350. According to the UNESCO description it flourished from the 14th to the 18th centuries, during which time it grew to be one of the world’s largest and most cosmopolitan urban areas and a center of global diplomacy and commerce.

    Unfortunately, along came the Burmese and burnt a considerable amount of the old city to the ground, leaving mostly ruins of temples. However, there is enough that remains to understand how impressive the city would have once been and it was well worth a visit. We stayed two nights but you can easily day-trip from Bangkok.

    1. How to get to Ayutthaya
    2. What to do in Ayutthaya
    3. Which temples to visit in Ayutthaya
      1. 5 must see temples in Ayutthaya
      2. 6 more temples to see in Ayutthaya
    4. Entry fee for Ayutthaya temples
    5. Ayutthaya temples opening times
    6. Dress code for Ayutthaya
    7. Is Ayutthaya worth visiting?
    8. How long should I stay in Ayutthaya?
    9. Ayutthaya top tips

    How to get to Ayutthaya

    Ayutthaya is located only an hour north of Bangkok making it an easy day trip or stopping off point on travels heading up to Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and further north. We use 12Go Asia for all our trains, buses, ferries etc. when we can. We’ve included direct links below to the journeys on 12Go, just change the date and you’re all set.

    There are a couple of ways to get to Ayutthaya from Bangkok. A very regular train that starts running at 07:10 and finishes at 23:23 will cost about £2.50 and has a journey time between 45-90 minutes depending on the train. Make sure you book a departure station in Bangkok that suits you best, there are a couple of stations the train leaves from. Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal is near Chatuchak, whereas the alternative station is Don Mueang which is a lot further north.

    An alternative route is to take a minivan from Mochit New Van Terminal which is close to Chatuchak as well, or Khao San Mama Travel on Khao San Road. Both departure points are easily accessible using a cheap Grab taxi. Of course you can take the metro and trains but these tend to be sometimes slower than hopping on a Grab bike or taking a car depending on the journey. The minivans also run very frequently throughout the day and just leave when they’re full enough, so you’ll need to be slightly flexible on your timings if using these.

    Once in Ayutthaya, both the train station and bus station are in the same area. There will be tuk tuks waiting to offer you lifts, don’t forget to negotiate a decent price or just use Grab to make the journey simple! If you haven’t downloaded Grab yet, then we’d absolutely recommend it for travelling around most of SE Asia.

    We took a minivan from Mochit New Van Terminal and it left bang on time and got to Ayutthaya even a little ahead of schedule. As we were visiting Ayutthaya on the way to Chiang Mai we didn’t take a return journey to Bangkok, but both the trains and busses run frequently in both directions.

    What to do in Ayutthaya

    Alongside the central archeological site which contains a lot of ruins, the city has beautiful temples all around the outside. The central temples are easy to cycle around and there cycle paths laid out. If you’re staying in Ayutthaya most hotels and hostels offer free bikes, but if not (or if the quality is poor) then there are plenty of places offering bikes for rent around town.

    To visit temples further out, we’d really recommend you rent a moped or hire a tuk tuk for the day! Don’t do what we did… We decided we’d use our hotel’s bikes to cycle to a few temples. We were naïve (borderline psychologically insane) as we thought doing a grand tour via bike would be great. Humidity, 33 degree heat, cycling over dual-carriageway bridges not designed or intended for bikes resulted in one of the sweatiest days of our lives. If you visit Ayutthaya don’t cycle 25km like we did, save that for the inner temples!

    Which temples to visit in Ayutthaya

    There are so many temples in the center, and on the outskirts, of Ayutthaya. Some now look pretty modern as they’ve been built over ruins to protect them or incorporate them into new temples, others are still ruins as we would expect to see them. Here’s a list of all the temples we saw and would recommend, along with a priority version if you’re pressed for time.

    5 must see temples in Ayutthaya

    These temples are all within cycling distance of each other, you can walk them too, and are very central, meaning you can easily see them all within a day trip and are nearby enough places to grab a bite to eat to break up the day.

    • Wat Worachettharam – stunning large complex close to the center
    • Wat Phra Si Sanphet – another large temple group, close to the center
    • Wat Phra Ram – very ornate but crumbling complex, close to the center and easily accessible
    • Wat Maha That – probably most famous for the Buddha head in the tree roots. Well worth a visit for lots of other reasons but this is also a beautiful part of the temple demonstrating how nature is slowly taking over
    • Wat Ratcha Burana – also central, close to the night market and Wat Maha That

    6 more temples to see in Ayutthaya

    If you have more time in Ayutthaya then we’d recommend adding these into your sightseeing as well. You will need to hire a scooter or take a tuk tuk to these ones though as they’re all outside of the center of town.

    • Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon – this temple is to the east of Ayutthaya center and has a large reclining buddha that is often draped in gold cloths
    • Wat Phut Thai Sawan – South of Ayutthaya center, rows of golden buddhas and a starkly white temple complex
    • Wat Chaiwatthanaram – a large complex on the edge of the river
    • Wat Suwandararam – interesting temple group with a mix of old ruins and more modern temples, a little south of the center
    • Wat Phanan Choeng Worawihan – large temple that looks new with a lot of parking infrastructure outside it, inside is an enormous golden Buddha. Near to a Chinese shrine on the river, Chao Mae Soi Dok Mak
    • Wat Sala Pun Worawihan – small temple group, along the river and west of the center

    Keep in mind that as there are 41 temples and more ruins all over the region, this is not an exhaustive list and you may find others to see as well so combine our recommendations with your own research.

    Entry fee for Ayutthaya temples

    There is no charge to walk around the National Park, which is the area where all the temples are. This means that you can see the temples clearly from the streets around the low-walled complexes for free.

    Not all of the temples cost the same, the entry fee prices vary between 20 – 50 Thai Baht.

    The entry and exit points on some of the lesser visited temples aren’t very well manned and we accidentally wandered into a couple of temples without realising that you usually have to pay as there was no-one at the entrance to take our money! We found that they’re not very strict on payment for entry unless you turn up with a tour group.

    Ayutthaya temples opening times

    Most temples open from 8am to 5pm, but keep in mind that there is limited shade at pretty much all of the temples and in the hottest part of the day (11am-2pm) it’s best to take a break for lunch!

    This does mean that if you’re doing a day trip from Bangkok to Ayutthaya you will be limited to the number of temples you’ll be able to visit. If you are going to see temples over midday then hats, water and shade-seeking are highly advisable!

    Dress code for Ayutthaya

    While there is no dress code for the National Park, when you enter the temples you will be asked to dress respectfully, like visiting any other temples in Thailand. That means knees and shoulders covered for both men and women.

    Is Ayutthaya worth visiting?

    Once you’ve seen one temple you’ve seen them all right? Wrong!! These temples are so different to others you’ll find in Thailand, especially on this scale. For this reason Ayutthaya is definitely worth visiting either from Bangkok as a day trip or on the way up to Chiang Mai.

    How long should I stay in Ayutthaya?

    If you only visit the 5 must see temples in the centre of town then you can easily make this a day trip from Bangkok.

    If you’re keen to see more temples further out then we’d recommend a whole day (with a night stop over) given the closing time, as you might want to have the chance to see more in the morning the next day.

    There isn’t much to do in Ayutthaya other than visit the temples so two full days is plenty for visiting Ayutthaya.

    Ayutthaya top tips

    • Walk around the central temples in the evening to see them lit up, they’re absolutely stunning in the daytime and at night.
    • If you’re staying in Ayutthaya then we’d recommend you pick a central accommodation, we stayed a little out of town and it really added to the journey time to see the temples!
    • On the whole Ayutthaya is a bit rough and ready, with less infrastructure catered towards tourists compared to other places we’ve visited. Beyond the temples, there isn’t masses to do.
    • But…there are some fantastic places to eat including:
    • The night market was full of food and locals and was really interesting to walk through

    This post contains affiliate links for 12GoAsia, a transport booking site that we use extensively on our travels. Did you know you can support us, at no additional cost to you, by clicking through and making a purchase using those links?

    Happy Travels!

  • Restaurant review – Michelin Guide Khao Soi in Chiang Mai

    Restaurant review – Michelin Guide Khao Soi in Chiang Mai

    Small kitchen with the Michelin guide sign tacked up on a fence panel

    What is Khao Soi?

    Khao Soi is a deliciously rich, creamy, slightly spicy yellow curry dish common in Northern Thailand. It usually contains tender slow cooked meat of pork, chicken or beef along with both boiled and fried noodles. Often Khao Soi will be served with pickles and onion with lime on the side. Add these to your dish as you go to get the full flavour combination. This is absolutely a dish you will want to try while in Northern Thailand.

    Spicey food pro tip

    If spicey food isn’t your thing but you still want to try the local cuisine you can always ask for the spice to be reduced. If that’s not possible then add sugar to the meal until you get the balance to your preferred taste. In Thailand there will very often be sugar, soy, and chili flakes available on every table so you can adjust the meal to your liking.

    The restaurant – Khao Soi Lung Prakit Kad Kom

    When we spoke to the monks in one of our many temple visits one key message was that everything happens for a reason. We’re not religious but I do find that life tends to work itself out in the end. For this place, we’re were willing to play loose and fast with the atheism vibes and allow a little Buddhism to shine through.

    We were randomly looking at Google maps for places nearby and saw this little eatery pop up. Clicked on it and saw 4.4 stars – great we thought. But more reading and it turns out it was featured on Netflix and holds a place in the Michelin guide (Bib Gourmand). Needless to say, our stomachs made clear there was no way we weren’t immediately marching there. And march we did.

    There was a large queue outside, vying for the shady spots to avoid the blistering heat, but as ever they have a system even if it’s not immediately apparent (everything will work itself out in the end) – a slip of paper with the modest sized menu on it, and a box to tick of you want takeaway or a table. Google translate was our best friend here and if you haven’t downloaded the offline version of the app we’d really recommend it!

    Menu to choose options and give to the servers while you wait

    We selected a Khao Soi with pork and one with beef, as we’d not yet tried the latter meat version whilst here.

    Pork (bottom) & beef (top) Khao Soi

    The Verdict

    The dishes had chunkier pieces of meat than previous versions that we’ve tried and of the two our preference was for the beef. It was melt-in-the-mouth tender and delicious. The pork was also really good but had a roast pork texture, instead of a fall-apart slow cook texture.

    Each came with the traditional accompaniments (pictured) of raw red onion, lime wedge and some pickled mustard greens which Jonny loves to throw right in because he’s a huge fan of the sour flavour being added.

    This Khao Soi had a delicious soup base – it was really tasty, rich and complex. As ever, it was spicy (a tad too much for Em) but with a slight sugar addition it hit the perfect level of heat for Jonny. I think one of the best things about Khao Soi is the mix of noodles and crispy noodles on top, it means you’re getting the texture hit, the rich and complex savoury flavour from the soup and meat, the heat too. It’s a fantastic combination and this place was a real winner – definitely worth the table wait and a highly recommended from us!

    Find it here:

    Location: 53 Suriyawong 5 Rd, Tambon Hai Ya, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50100, Thailand

    Opening times: 09:30-16:30 every day

    Price: 50-60฿ per dish


    Find more great places to eat in Chiang Mai in our blog post How to eat really (really) well in Chiang Mai on a budget.


  • How to eat really (really) well in Chiang Mai on a budget

    How to eat really (really) well in Chiang Mai on a budget

    Contents

    Night Markets

    Night Markets are a great way to try lots of amazing food on a budget

    If you’ve ever spent time in south east Asia before then you’ll no doubt be very familiar with night markets. These amazing food stalls set up all along streets, car parks, bus stations (wherever there’s space) which serve up the tastiest food for incredibly good prices.

    Chiang Mai Old City is framed with the old walls and moat, making the centre of a town a square with four original entry points over bridges. There are now many more access points to the city but all four large bridge crossings serve as key night market spots where you’re sure to find something delicious and cheap.

    Disclaimer alert: Of course the below aren’t the only places to eat and drink in Chiang Mai but we’d never be able to cover everything this amazing city has to offer in one blog post, part of the fun is finding out your favourite places to eat too!

    Chiang Mai Gate (South)

    At the south of the Old City, this night market sits pretty near the top of our list for eateries in Chiang Mai. It runs on both sides of the street and across the bridge crossing. There’s a really good mix of food on offer here, from amazing fresh frappucino style juices for 20฿ (mango was our all time favourite) to BBQ meat on skewers for 12฿ (from experience we should share that what look like lovely chunks of chicken breast are probably chicken anuses…). There’s a ton of rice and noodle options, including pad thai of course, for about 40-50฿ a plate. All in all, you can eat and drink really well here for about 60฿ (£1.20) per person.

    Market Highlights

    These are a few of our favourite and highly recommended stands for this market:

    • Juice stand – cross over the pedestrian crossing (the one with the lights) with your back to Nu Nu Nini’s cafe. Once over the road, look for a fruit juice stand to your left, usually under a tree. Juices are 20฿, or 30฿ for mixed fruit.
    • Wide rice noodles and pad thai – in the same area (i.e. before you cross the second pedestrian crossing) there’s a noodle stand that is always busy and has about 3 woks on the go at all times. Get the pad thai or rice noodles here and you won’t be disappointed. Plates range from 35-60฿.
    • Pork and rice – don’t cross the road yet! With the noodle stand in front of you walk to your right up the stands until you find the man selling pork and rice. The pork has been slow cooking all day and is truly melt in the mouth. A portion of pork and rice will set you back 45-50฿.
    • Crossover the pedestrian crossing and directly in front of you is likely to be a rotee stand. Banana and chocolate is one of the best choices you can make and will cost 35฿.
    • Roughly next to the rotees is a samosa stand, called Madam Street Food, they sell other things but will always be known to us for their samosas which are so good. 15฿ each, good hot or cold.

    Chang Phueak Gate (North)

    This was actually our least favourite market, the sellers were pushy and there was an unpleasant sewage smell throughout the market.

    However, this is the only place we saw selling beer at any of the markets, and at a very reasonable price of 70฿ for a large Leo or Chang. Usually we buy Leo from 7-11 for 59฿ and take it to the market which nobody minds. Standard prices for drinks in restaurants or bars are much, much higher so lots of people go the 7-11 route!

    This market will do, it’s just not the best one in town in our opinion.

    Tha Phae Gate (East)

    While the North and South Markets are directly next to the Old City walls, the market to the East is a bit further out, but not much, about 15-20 minute walk.

    The main food area is called Anusarn Market and it’s a large undercover food hall that also sells clothes and souvenirs with live music. This market is a bit different in that it’s less a street market and more substantial, so there are beer stands for 90฿ and a lot of different options when it comes to food. For instance, we ate at one of the seafood grill stands and had crab and king prawns for a total of 500฿. This is obviously more expensive than your typical street market pricing, but it’s a pretty good deal for tasty sea food and the portions were huge. You can get individual items for less and there are lots of other foodie options so you absolutely won’t go hungry here.

    • Pros: good food, sells beer, live music
    • Cons: no fans and undercover so can get very hot! Also double the price of south gate Market but dishes are still between 50-80฿.

    Saun Dok Gate (West)

    Now, there is a market near the West gate, especially on Sunday when the Sunday Night Market makes that area of town a heaving, touristy nightmare, but we’d recommend skipping that entirely and pushing a bit further out to Chiang Mai’s University area. From the centre it’s about a 40 minute walk or a 10 minute Grab ride.

    Students are all alike no matter where you go; they have no money and are hungry. There’s an answer to this, and it’s Suthep Road. This was the biggest, cheapest, tastiest and most authentic-just-for-the-locals market that we found in Chiang Mai.There are very few translated menus here, just see what you like the look of, point, smile, and take a seat. Let the magic happen, the food will arrive, it will be delicious, and it won’t cost you the earth (or anywhere near it).

    What we ate

    There are so many options here that we’ll struggle to include directions, so the best bet is to look for the longest queues and check those places out. If you see a stand with baskets of fried chicken, highly recommended, or a pork and rice stand run by an old woman and her son – again, very much recommended. There’s also an awesome noodle stand and a lot of sweet options. The first time we went there we ate five (good sized) different deep fried chicken pieces, a large noodle and egg dish, one spring roll, one butter bread thing (insanely delicious, no idea what it was), and three macarons (unfortunately wouldn’t recommend these, they were more like biscuits).

    Our total came to 126฿ (£2.80) and we were so full. There are also lots of ‘proper’ restaurants on the same street so if nothing on the stands takes your fancy, something in the restaurants will. Seriously, go here, your wallets and stomachs will thank us.

    Day Markets

    While the street food markets usually take place at night only, there are often morning markets which sell actual groceries, packed lunches (typically in little bags), and cakes and brioche. These open early and usually wrap up about 10am. You’ll mainly find locals here with a few rogue tourists but the food options and price reflects that too.

    Chiang Mai gate market has a lot of choices for lunches, snacks, and breakfast. It also sells amazing fruit, we bought a kilo of mangoes for 40฿, they were absolutely delicious.

    Top tip: morning market produce is really helpful (and tasty) for road trips and long bus journeys as well.

    Restaurants

    There’s a pause in market activity during the day, but that doesn’t mean you can’t find delicious and affordable food for lunch! These are all the places we recommend trying (including a Netflix featured, Michelin guide Kao Soi).

    • Mae Chan MheeKeao (Hong Kong Noodle) – 60-100฿
    • Bowls&Breads (grilled cheese sandwiches on fresh, homemade bread) – 85-135฿
    • WAKO BAKE at Old Town Chiang Mai (amazing milk bread stuffed sandwiches, with katsu, egg, and lots of other things!) – 79-119฿
    • มุมอร่อย (simple and insanely delicious pork noodle/rice with soup) – 50-60฿
    • Mr KAI restaurant (try the Khao Soi and spring rolls) – 60-80฿
    • Khao Soi Lung Prakit Kad Kom (this place was featured in a Netflix show and is now crazy popular but it’s still full of locals and they didn’t raise their prices) – 50-60฿

    Hopefully these recommendations show that you absolutely can eat well in Chiang Mai without spending a fortune. Let us know if you tried any of these places or have other suggestions to add to the list!